Wainwright Coast to Coast Walk The End!

After a hearty breakfast at Lisvane bed and breakfast in Grosmont we were on the move by 8.45am. No sausage scares for Al so all was well with the world!

All uphill for a couple of miles then across heather moors and down to Littlebeck. The section from here was a quite interesting woodland gorge. Al did his daily silly bugger turn at the hermits cave (see photo).

Al playing silly buggers in the hermits cave

Falling Foss waterfall had little water but was still quite picturesque through the trees.

We diverted across footpaths over heather moors to High Hawsker and the Hare and Hounds pub by 12.45 pm. The Theakstons Black Bull Bitter and Thwaites Wainwright Ale were both in good form, as was the enormous BLT baguette.

The final leg was along the cliff tops in sunshine to Robin Hoods Bay.

Robin Hoods Bay from less than a mile to go! 

We made a bee-line for the shoreline, fortunately it was high tide so not far to go, and paddled in the sea to finish the Wainwright Coast to Coast walk which we started on 5th July 2011. A total time of 2 years 1 month.

Next was a celebratory drink or two of Theakston's Bitter in the Bay Hotel and signing of the official register.

Bay Hotel Robin Hoods Bay

The celebrations continued into the evening as Jan and Carol, our wives, arrived. We had a good meal at the Dolphin and a few pints of Old Peculiar to round off the trip.

Al at the end

Wainwright Coast to Coast Lion Inn to Grosmont

After a hearty breakfast at the Lion Inn at Blakey we left at 9am heading for Grosmont.

It was dry all day, with lots of sunshine, until we went to the pub at the end of the day when it rained.

The first 10 miles was across open moors with just sheep for company, and Al. Then we went down into Glaisdale where we had our first break at 12.10pm, at the Arncliffe Arms and a pint of Beggars Bridge bitter.

Then it was down the hill through the trees to the old Beggars Bridge. I took this on my proper camera, my Mamiya 7, as it was a good shot. Al also posed on the bridge, he likes posing!

Saw a Kingfisher flash by just above the water as I was taking shots. Always good to see, the river must be in a good state.

Next was The Horseshoe Hotel at Egton Bridge at 1.30pm. The Men of Steel bitter was very tasty as we sat in the beer garden in the sun. The bottom of the glass was amusing, it read Get T' Bar, the message was recorded for posterity by both of us (see below)!

Just round the corner was The Postgate, still in Egton Bridge, at 2.25pm. Just time for a pint of Timothy Taylor Landlord before it closed at 3pm. Had to wait for a new barrel and it was excellent.

Finally we walked along the flat estate track to Grosmont and our final 'lunchtime' pint at the Station Tavern 4pm. This time it was the local Strongarm bitter.

Our bed and breakfast place is near the pub so we returned to the Station Tavern for some food, and the odd pint! We are currently on about 15 miles per gallon, of beer!

After a bit over 2 years we finish the Wainwright Coast to Coast walk tomorrow in Robin Hoods Bay.

All photos taken on my Samsung Galaxy S3, except the one taken by Al on his HTC phone.

Beggars Bridge, Glaisdale

Arncliffe Arms Glaisdale

Al and The Horseshoe Hotel Egton Bridge

Al Playing Silly Buggers on Beggars Bridge

The Postgate Egton Bridge

My only train photo, ever!

Left, Copyright Al Hardacre, Right, bottom of my glass

Wainwright Coast to Coast Walk Clay Bank to Lion Inn Blakey

We had to be up early today as Andrea, our landlady at Newlands House in Great Broughton, had to go to a funeral in Middlesborough. Breakfast was at 7.30am, followed by a lift to the pass where we finished the official route yesterday. We were well looked after!

Readers will be relieved to hear that Al remembered his sausage today but forgot to eat it until we had arrived at the pub. I should add that it was a different sausage to the one that is now considered lost from yesterday.

We were walking by 8.30am, along the edge and onto the moors above. It was another warm, dry day.

The landscape was not the most inspiring, mostly flat so I took no photos until we reached our destination, the Lion Inn, just 9miles today. The ones here were taken on my mobile. Lots of dogs in the pub tonight so my asthma and allergies were not good.

I had a pint of Wainwright followed by a couple of Old Peculiars. We then had a break and rechecked the Old Peculiar this evening. By the end of the evening we were down to 15mpg for this 3-day section of the walk. Tomorrow we head to Grosmont.

Wainwright Coast to Coast Walk Ingleby to Clay Bank Top

Today Big Al and I walked from Ingleby to Great Broughton, continuing the Wainwright Coast to Coast walk that we started 2 years ago. 

This shot was taken from the last craggy section today,  near Clay Bank Top, taken on my phone and converted to black and white.

 Earlier today Al prepared a sausage sandwich from his breakfast. Unfortunately, he left it in our room instead of bringing it with him. It wouldn't have been so bad but he was whingeing about it all day! 

He also lost a Sigg water bottle near the end of the day, as we made our way to our accommodation for the night. He thinks it was while we limboed under a fallen tree trunk across the path, at least that provided a bit of variety for the whingeing. 

The day started with a long slog up through forest,  so no views. Then it opened out as we reached the moors above. Lots of ups and downs, in fact over 4100 feet of ups and downs. A  few rocks and crags near the end of the day but not that inspiring compared to what I'm used to in the Peak District. 

Saw a live mole right beside the path. Completely oblivious to us being there and to think Al had used moleskin on his feet to prevent blisters. Rather insensitive I thought! 

It was about 12.5 miles from Ingleby to Clay Bank Top, mostly in sunshine. We were unable to get hold of our hosts for the night for a lift so we decided to walk the extra 2.5 miles to Great Broughton as it was still early, just 2.45pm in fact. Unfortunately all the pubs were shut when we reached the village. 

This evening we ate in the Jet Miners pub and had a couple of Cumberland Ales, even though we are in Yorkshire! Then we moved on to the Bay Horse and they had Snecklifter, one of my favourite beers, so we stayed for a few here. Our beer mileage for the trip is about 21mpg as we couldn't find anywhere open at lunchtime. 

Early start tomorrow as our landlady needs to go to a funeral. We're being well looked after at Newlands House though and will have a lift back to the start on Clay Bank Top, saving about an hour. 

Wainwright Coast to Coast Part 3

After 3 days in the Yorkshire Dales we moved on to North Yorkshire to resume our 3 year trip along the Wainwright Coast to Coast walk.

I'm doing it with good friend Al, from Gloucester. Al tells me I have to say hello to everyone following our progress in Australia. Hello! Condolences on losing the Ashes series!

We started in the Swan in Danby Wiske with a couple of pints of Gun Dog Bitter. Al could only manage one as he had to drop off his car at our end point for the day.  Off to a good start one way or another!

The walk from here was across fields on slippery, muddy tracks in flat lands. Dry and really overcast. Not the best walking country!  No photos, I didn't even carry my tripod.

We arrived at 4.30pm but had to wait until 5.30pm to check-in at the Blue Bell Inn. After dumping our luggage in the room we retired to the bar for a couple of pints of Blue Bell bitter.

After a quick wash and brush up we resumed our session with Blue Bell bitter. The Theakstons bitter was well under par so we stayed on Blue Bell all night.

Tomorrow is forecast to be a better day weather wise along the Cleveland Edge. Hope Al manages to avoid the dreaded chafing that he usually suffers on these trips!

Preparation for Coast to Coast Last Leg

We're in the Yorkshire Dales with friends walking the hills, taking some photos.

It's also a bit of last minute training for the last leg of the Wainwright Coast to Coast walk that I started with good friend Al 2 years ago. We are going to take 5 days to walk the 60 miles from Danby Wiske to Robin Hoods Bay, starting Monday.

Yesterday we had a good day on Pen-y-Gent before big Al arrived, a 15 mile day. This included a break at the Crown in Horton to sample the Old Peculiar, which was on fine form, followed by a few pints of Nutty Black in the evening.

Today we walked to Giggleswick and back to Austwick, an 11 mile day. There were a few showers today but it was nice enough to sit outside at lunchtime. I had a couple of pints of Great Bear from a local brewery. Back on Nutty Black tonight.

The only photo today was taken at the pub at lunchtime on my phone. There were some good spells but not with views that I wanted to take. Maybe tomorrow will be better for photography.

40th Anniversary of Wainwright's Coast to Coast Book

Just found out that it was the 40th anniversary of Wainwright's Coast to Coast walk book first being published on 10th March.

I didn't realise in 1978 that we were walking it so soon after the book was published. I finish walking it for a second time in August, this time with good friend Al from Gloucester. We divided it into 3 sections, St Bees to Shap in 2011, Shap to Danby Wiske last year and it will be Danby Wiske to Robin Hood's Bay to finish.

I still think it's a good walk. Lots of variety in the landscapes and lots of pubs!

Here's a shot of Robin Hood's Bay where the walk ends, on the Yorkshire coast.

Wainwright Coast to Coast Walk Richmond to Danby Wiske

Today was the last day walking this years section of Wainwright's Coast to Coast trail with Al (@apistake)

Richmond to Danby Wiske; a bit over 15 miles the way we went. See photo of Richmond Castle and River Swale from the start.
Another 8.40am start, another dry warm day. We planned to stop at the pub at Catterick Bridge but thought 10.50am was a bit early for a beer. We carried on to the Farmers Arms at Scorton.
Unfortunately, we were too fast and arrived at 11.45am; maybe that was the Olympic influence! The pub opened at 12am. We sat in the sunshine until opening time. Both of us had Copper Dragon Golden Pippin.

Next stop was the churchyard at Burton on Swale to see the monument to Henry Jenkins who lived to be 169 years old in the 1500's and 1600's. That's a long time! See photo.

From there it was farmland, cows and crops to Danby. The only muddy section on the whole day being the last mile to Danby.
We finished at 3.15pm at the White Swan. First off was a Northallerton Dark Ale, a bit sweet for me but the Yorkshire Dicky Edge was a good pint.

So, just a short day to end a great trip. The waterproofs were only used for 10 minutes in 5 days and the walking was good.
Thanks to Al for his company and keeping me entertained, even when he didn't realise it!

I have some new landscape, waterfall and other photos. It may take me a while to get to them though as my new book, City Light, will have to take precedence.

We managed a creditable 17 mpg (beer!) over the 73 miles that we walked in 5 days.

So that's 10 days down. Next year we return to Danby Wiske to walk the 4 or 5 days to Robin Hood's Bay to finish the walk.

Wainwright Coast to Coast Walk Reeth to Richmond

It was the easiest day of our trip today, as judged by the time we reached the pub in Richmond.

We left Reeth at 8.30 am after a very hearty breakfast at Cambridge House b&b. A friendly place on the north side of Reeth.

The route went through lots of fields of sheep, cows and a few walkers. Our route took us south of Marrick village then north and by the time we had rejoined the main route we had no-one on the route ahead.

Next stop was the 800 year old church in the small village of Marske. I ran off a few photos from the graveyard.
The final section to Richmond was just under a cliff edge with good views to the valley below. Hazy now so no photos.
We were in Richmond by 1.15pm (11 miles) and headed for Wetherspoons. Just the 10 real ales on but we limited ourselves to one; lots of pubs here.

Next was the Golden Lion, a Marston's pub so I was hoping for Snecklifter. None available but there was Hobgoblin so I had one of these, and another to check the first was no fluke!
Al (@apistake) asked the well endowed barmaid for a Real Handful; I'm surprised he didn't get a slap instead of a pint!
Al has dragged me back here this evening, am forcing down another Hobgoblin.

Tomorrow we finish this years trek in Danby Wiske, 15 miles from Richmond. Another good forecast, probably no rain in 5 days.
Jan meets us at the end to take Al back to his car in Shap and us back to Derbyshire.

Wainwright Coast to Coast Walk Keld to Reeth

We had a good day today on day 3 of our trip. Sunshine all day and easy walking. More importantly after yesterday, no bog!

Had breakfast at 7.30 am despite having trouble dragging Al out of the bar last night. No change there then! The breakfasts at Keld Lodge were excellent and set us up for the day.

We were off by 8.20am and by 8.30 I was taking photos. Keld is waterfall country. Kisdon Force was the first fall and is in several sections. All of them make good photos with the top one being the highest.

Lots of big views as we walked along. The next photo stop was a ruined mine building next to a couple of pretty waterfalls. See mobile phone pic below.

The country after this was quite scarred by mining. Ruined buildings, lime kilns and hillsides with no vegetation because of the methods used in lead mining. Lots of ruined buildings at the Old Gang Smelting Mill. Then it was a few miles through typical dales scenery to Reeth. Quite beautiful today.

We stopped at the first pub, as you would expect, the Buck Hotel. Jolly nice Copper Dragon Bitter, Timothy Taylor Landlord and Black Sheep Bitter, plus 2 that aren't my favourites.

3 pubs within 50 yards, 2 Theakston's and 1 freehouse. Trying the Old Peculiar at the Black Bull at the moment.

About 42 miles in 3 days so far. Pretty easy walking except 9 Standards Rigg peat bog yesterday.

Fleshpots of Richmond tomorrow (the one in North Yorkshire!).

Once again no phone signal so relying on wifi in pub.

Wainwright Coast to Coast Walk Kirkby Stephen to Keld

After a very nice breakfast at Castle View in Kirkby Stephen we started day 2. Overall this was day 7 of our version of Wainwright's Coast to Coast walk as we started last year.

It was an easy walk out of the village, with a stop for photos of Wild Boar Fell. Then 2 hours later we were on 9 Standards Rigg. I forgot to take a photo on my mobile so Al sent me one of his (the one with a line of big cairns).

The 9 Standards Rigg are a set of large cairn-like structures. I now have a set of photos of them.

The way down to Whitsundale was literally a quagmire of peat bog. I hate peat bogs and avoid them in the Peak District except when dry or frozen so this was a bit of a trial.

Al offered to to treat me to a hot chocolate at Ravenseat Farm. He had seen it on the Yorkshire Dales tv programme (the farm not the hot chocolate!).

Unfortunately, he only had £20 notes so asked me to pay. I'm still trying to work out how me paying for my drink as well as Al's drink and scone constitutes a treat!

Al did his good deed for the day by freeing a young lamb from the fence. It was trapped by it's horns.

We came down to the road and went back to Wain Wath falls. See photo. These are very photogenic falls and I ran off a few rolls. The lower falls were best.

I had to wait to take photos of the upper falls because 2 women kept swimming across my picture under the falls. How thoughtless!

Staying at Keld Lodge tonight. Black Sheep Ale is very good. The Black Sheep Blonde was good when we arrived.

Tomorrow we walk to Reeth.

Wainwright Coast to Coast Walk Shap to Kirkby Stephen

Today Al and I resumed the Wainwright Coast to Coast walk. We left the Greyhound Hotel in Shap a bit after 8.30am in sunshine.

With my bad back I had planned a route that was several miles shorter than the Wainwright route. It also had the advantage of a pub roughly halfway!

Neither of us had walked in the area we passed through, including the pretty villages of Crosby Ravensworth, Great Asby and Crosby Garret as well the town of Kirkby Stephen.

The countryside was typical dales scenery. Lots of dry stone walls and limestone scenery, including several areas of limestone pavement. Except for 5 minutes it was dry, and mostly sunny, all day. See photo.

Lunchtime was spent in the 3 Greyhounds in Great Asby. We tried the 2 beers on offer; Cumberland Corby Ale and Theakston Grouse Beater, both well kept and on good form. See photo.

This evening in Kirkby Stephen we started in the Bulls Head with Black Sheep Bitter but didn't fancy the Holt's bitter so moved across to the Kings Arms for Dent Aviator (not as good as last night in Shap) and Thwaites Wainwright route (not well kept).

Now we are off to the Jennings pub down the road to end the night.

Tomorrow we walk from Kirkby Stephen to Keld. Good forecast too.

Coast to Coast Preparation

Al (@apistake on Twitter) and I arrived at the Greyhound Hotel in Shap this afternoon ready to start our Coast to Coast walk tomorrow.
Just the 8 real ales on so we had our work cut out to try them all. Between the 2 of us we managed though.
Jolly nice Cumberland sausage for dinner. Best of the beers was Dent Aviator closely followed by Eden Best. 5 of the other 6 were good but Old Peculiar was past it's best. Good preparation for walking!
Tomorrow we resume our Coast to Coast walk, started in 2011, with 17 miles from Shap to Kirkby Stephen.

Wainwright's Coast to Coast Walk Round 2

We have just had a very enjoyable weekend with lots of friends staying with us, walking the hills and visiting local hostelries. The only rain from Friday morning to Sunday night was while we were in the Quiet Woman in Earl Sterndale having a lunch break from the walking! It's not often the Peak District is one of the driest places in the country.

Today I travel up to Shap in Cumbria with good friend Al ready to resume our leisurely version of Wainwright's Coast to Coast walk which we started last year from St Bee's on the west coast. Tomorrow we start with a 17 mile walk from Shap to Kirkby Stephen and finish in Danby Wiske on Saturday afternoon, just under 70 miles in total in 5 days. Next year we hope to complete it and arrive in Robin Hood's Bay on the east coast.

Fingers crossed for dry weather!

I bought some new boots on Thursday, Meindl Dovre Extremes. They are similar to Meindl Lohtse boots but 3 inches higher around the leg. My Achilles tendon has been sore for quite a while now and having the top of my hiking boots hit the tendon as I walk doesn't help. So far I have walked about 25 miles in them without a problem. Hopefully that will help the tendon to recover while I continue to walk the hills and take photos.

Shap Beer Review and Official MPG figures for trek

What a surprise, the Greyound in Shap was a Camra real ale pub and had 8 on hand pumps. The landlord said if we drank all 8 he would give us the 9th free. A challenge too far for us, methinks!
We had a couple as soon as we arrived; it was a hot afternoon! I started with Lancaster Black before trying the Lancaster Red. The Black was a tasty pint, a cross between a black bitter and a stout. The red was quite bland with little taste.
After showering and changing it was time for dinner. I had the local Cumberland sausage (thought I should have one before leaving Cumberland), which was very nice, with Cumbria Langdale, a very tasty pint, followed by Hawkshead Windermere pale ale, a bit too hoppy for me but nice all the same. Then it was Dent Aviator, always a good pint, finishing with Hawkshead Red, freshly tapped and a good one to finish on.
Overall, that makes 33 pints of beer in 64 miles over 5 days, giving a final figure of 15.5 miles per gallon. A very creditable performance!
Watch out on my main web site for the trek photos in a few weeks time. I will try and remember to post a note here too.

St Bees to Shap Trek - Day 5

Al and I finished the 5 day, 60 mile plus trek across the Lake District. I am writing this a bit late as I fell asleep late yesterday after I started. It was either the exertions of the last 5 days or the 6 pints!
Today was the best weather, sunshine, blue sky and white fluffy clouds. Days you dream of!

We left the White Lion in Patterdale at 8.45am, heading across and then uphill to Angle Tarn. This was a good place for photos so I was running around picking out the views as the light changed.
Quite a high day, taking in Kidsty Pike before dropping down to the huge reservoir of Haweswater. Nice clouds helped a few shots. Then a few more miles saw us into the village of Shap and our lodgings at The Greyhound Hotel at 5.45pm, just 9 hours for 16 miles over the tops, including quite a few photo stops.
Overall, we had some nice weather every day, as well as rain most days.

Both of us were going well most of the time. I only had to encourage Al to do more than he wanted to on 1 day, the ridge up and over Fairfield. He was glad he decided to do it as the views were fantastic and the forecast bad weather was delayed until we were safely in the pub.

Best shots were probably around Sour Milk Gill above Seathwaite, with the backlit waterfall from below, but some of the big views should look great with the clouds. That is the bonus from changeable weather - good clouds.

Best day probably Grasmere to Patterdale taking in Fairfield and St Sunday Crag, closely followed by Ennerdale Bridge to Stonethwaite because of the descent down Gillercomb as the rains cleared.

We met lots of interesting people for chats on the trail and in the pubs. It was really nice having good company with the common goal of a specific walk. In particular I always looked forward to chats and banter with Trevor and Wendy from Letty Green, Leanne and Margaret from Australia and Brigitte from Switzerland.
Al was good company, as always and it was good to spend time together as I hadn't seen much of him in the last few years.
We are in the minibus going back to the car in St Bees, the home later. Will work out the miles per gallon (beer!) later, probably less than 20 though.

Last nights beer review to follow!

Patterdale Beer Review

Just turned in for the night at the White Lion Hotel in Patterdale. We planned a visit to the Patterdale Hotel a couple of hundred yards away. In the end we were having such a good time chatting to fellow walkers that we stayed put.
We had been spoilt at previous hostelries so just having 2 real ales on seemed a bit limiting.  There was Bass and Tirrell White Lion, both bitters. Both very palatable but not very special. That's it, beer review over! 
Not sure why but of the 10 of us we were last to leave the bar again. That's 4 nights running and we have only been going 4 days!
We walk 16 miles tomorrow and finish at Shap. Fingers crossed for good weather for good views on the tops.

St Bees to Shap Trek - Day 4

Jolly nice day today despite BBC weather forecasting end of the world storms! It was a short day of just 9 miles so we had a leisurely breakfast and left hotel at 9.30am, in sunshine.
Straight up hillside to reach Great Rigg at 11.15am. Views back over Grasmere with a bit of light and interesting clouds. Used a dark yellow filter to helpwith tones in the clouds.
Another half hour saw us on Fairfield, one of the biggest peaks in the Lake District at just under 3000 feet. A bit too dull for photos but still good views (the first time I have seen the views in 4 visits to the top!).
Then over Cofa Pike and on to St Sunday Crag, just an hour from Fairfield, where we stopped for lunch (Eccles Cakes for me). Met Wendy and Trevor again (from Letty Green - I can remember going to parties here in my youth!) and Anne from Australia. They were all putting on waterproofs ready for the approaching rain that we could see heading our way.
Then downhill all the way to Patterdale and the White Lion Hotel. It was just 2.45pm so we decided we would have a couple of lunchtime pints: Bass and White Lion bitter.
It was dry pretty much all day, with just a few minutes of light rain. So much for weather forecasts!
Just 1 day to go to Shap where we finish.

Grasmere Beer Review

The novelty of having phone signal has prompted me to do a 2nd post today. It's mainly a beer review - Al and I had a bit of a session!
First it was into Tweedies Bar for a few beers and a meal. All were jolly nice. I started with a Cumbrian Brewery Grasmoor dark ale. Oaty and smooth and jolly nice (best of the night and probably trip too). Then on to Coniston Old Man in reasonable condition before trying the Orkney Raven summer ale, foolishly I thought being called Raven it would be a dark ale, how wrong I was. This was champion beer of Scotland but no idea why. It was very bland and could have been anything.
I finished the early session with Old Peculiar, tasty as ever but preferred the Grasmoor. Special note: Al had a Yates Bitter, normally I steer clear of Yates beers as I have had too many bad pints but he insists this one was good and deserves a mention. So there it is - probably the first and last mention of Yates beers in this blog!
Just been having dinner with Al and he reminded me of a story I forgot to recount. At the Shepherds Arms in Ennerdale Bridge Al's bed was next to the bathroom door. Every time I went to the loo in the night he woke with a start and thought there was an earthquake. It turned out to be a loose floorboard rocking the bedside cupboard! What a sensitive flower he is.
Al has just discovered the way to see emails from more than the last 2 weeks. He has just downloaded emails back to 2003. I hope Carol doesn't see the mobile phone.bill!
Met up with a couple of fellow walkers in the Red Lion to end the evening. Trevor and Wendy were from Letty Green where I used to go for parties in the '70's and Al's wife used to live. Small world.
We finished with a couple of Dent Brewery beers: Ramsbottom, followed by Kamikazi. 2 strong beers and both jolly nice. The evening went a bit hazy after this.
Patterdale tomorrow, hopefully over Fairfield.

St Bees to Shap Trek - Day 3

We made it to Grasmere from Stonethwaite. Quite a bit of heavy rain but with some sunny spells. More importantly there is a phone signal, something we haven't had for the last 3 days.
Heading off to the pub soon, probably Tweedies Bar as they had 7 or 8 real ales on when we checked it out earlier.
We left the Langstrath Hotel at 8.25am and walked up the dale beside the river, which is now a raging torrent from all the heavy rain. High up the track was under several inches of water and became a waterfall higher up.
Very boggy underfoot. Made way to start of ridge to Calf Crag, Gibson Knott and Helm Crag . We spent about 1.5h on the ridge from 12pm, including several photo stops, chats with other walkers and a bite to eat. The light was pretty good but changed very quickly for photos.
The path came down steeply into Grasmere and it rained again as we finished the 8 mile walk at 3.15pm. The hotel is pretty good. Not much choice when booking as few places here will take 1 night bookings but we seem to have done well.
Well, the pub is calling to us so must dash.