Thursday, 12 June 2014

Lakes Round Day 7 - Tarn Hows

It was a late breakfast today, our Grasmere hotel didn't open the
breakfast room until 8.30 am. No good if you have a big day on the hills. Fortunately we didn't, it was almost a rest day walking to Coniston.

The forecast was for showers up to around 9am then wall to wall sun from 3 pm, sunny spells in between.

I decided to carry an extra lens, the 43mm wide-angle lens for my Mamiya 7 camera, to go with the 65mm lens. I also packed Ilford SFX infrared film and filters, only worth carrying on really sunny days. Ilford FP4 film is always in my camera case!

We left at 9.40 am (had to wait for Al to go and buy gingerbread at his favourite gingerbread shop) and it was dull and spitting with rain for the first hour or so.

We headed over to Elterwater, arriving at 10.40 am. Al tried to head straight for the door of the Britannia Inn but I managed to hold him back. Ten minutes later we were drinking our first pints of the day!

The shot of the Langdale Pikes from the shore of Elterwater is a classic so I was planning to take it again. Unfortunately, the mountains were in the clouds so we headed to the Skelwith Bridge Hotel to wait for the weather to brighten. It seemed churlish to just sit there so we had a pint to help pass the time.

It was brightening up as we left. Fingers crossed for photos at our next stop, Tarn Hows lakes.

We saw Spotted Flycatchers and then within an hour or so a Pied Flycatcher, both close beside the track.

It was dull at the lakes so we went round the long way hoping it would brighten. It did and I took a few shots. The sky started to break up so I put a light red filter on to darken it. It was a jolly nice day now.

We picked up our footpath heading for Coniston and spotted a series of waterfalls on Tom Gill stream. These were the last shots of the day. From here it was an easy few miles to Coniston. We decided we would have a pint to help cool down at the Crown Hotel before going to our b&b.

This evening we had to visit the Black Bull Inn, home of the Coniston Brewery. They do a jolly nice Special Oatmeal Stout.

7 days down with just one to go. Back to Boot in Eskdale tomorrow.
Today was 13.5 miles and a bit over 7 hours including pub and photo stops. Tomorrow we climb the Old Man of Coniston and return to the Woolpack.






Tuesday, 10 June 2014

Lakes Round Day 6 - Helvellyn

Oh dear, we feared the worst. Rain forecast all day! It was supposed to be showery though so I packed my Mamiya 7 camera, Gitzo tripod and Ilford FP4 film.

The rain started as we stepped out of the hotel in Thirlspot, it obviously recognised us! It was very heavy for an hour or so, quite unpleasant as we climbed steeply.

Clouds were down on the tops so no views for the first 2.5 hours to the summit. Then a brief view of Catstye Cam before we reached the summit shelter. After a half hour flapjack break we moved off, I was hoping we might drop below the clouds as we descended, and we did.

Clouds stayed low but off most of the tops and the sun was moving across the view every now and then. I took lots of photos of Striding Edge ridge and Red Tarn. It was worth carrying all the camera gear after all!

As I was photographing the Edge a man slowly worked his way across to me from Striding Edge, I was well away from the main trail above some cliffs. We had a chat, turned out he had published a book of photographs of the battlefields of World War 1, he was Mike Sheils.

It closed in a bit and looked like a storm was about to strike but didn't. No more photos.

Down to Grasmere and Tweedies Bar. 8 beers on, we knew straight away we had our work cut out this evening!







Monday, 9 June 2014

Lakes Round Day 5 - High Rigg

Short day today at 7.5 miles and 3.5 hours. Just as well as about 30 minutes after leaving the Inn in Threlkeld a heavy shower forced us to put on full waterproofs. It rained for the next 3 hours.

I took one photo on my phone and nothing on my Mamiya 7 camera before the rain stopped all thought of photography. It's never that satisfying to carry 6kg of camera gear that isn't used! The rain came heavy as I was taking the photos of the lake and Google joined them up to make a short video to give you an idea of the conditions, reflection then rain bouncing off the lake surface.

We made our way to High Rigg, a small blip surrounded by big mountains. A great viewpoint for photos of Skiddaw, Blencathra and Helvellyn on a good day, but not today.

As if hours of rain wasn't enough the Snecklifter was off! Al was wet through, his waterproofs are not waterproof. His new Mountain Warehouse allegedly waterproof boots are also leaking like a sieve. He says he has mushrooms growing between his toes! Hopefully that's an exaggeration.

Oh joy! Snecklifter is on for this evening.

3 days to go. Tomorrow we climb Helvellyn our 4th and last 3000-footer. Grasmere tomorrow night. Mixed forecast so will carry Mamiya 7 camera and rest of gear just in case the shot of a lifetime presents itself.

Sunday, 8 June 2014

Lakes Round Day 4 - Skiddaw

So much for weather forecasts. Today the Met Office and BBC told us to expect heavy rain showers all day. In fact we had no rain at all and lots of sunshine. It was a great day on the hills!

Fortunately our hotel had a very efficient drying room so Al was able to dry his undies, and his boots ready for another day on the hills. We had separate rooms as they had no twins. That gave Al a problem - no alarm! He has a smartphone but it must be the only one in the world without an alarm! I sent a text to wake him up!

We headed for Skiddaw via Carl Side. Not many people on the route, obviously the masses had listened to the forecast and arranged to do something indoors.

I took my Mamiya 7 camera with the 65mm lens, Gitzo tripod and Ilford FP4 and hoped for some sunshine before all hell broke loose. I needn't have worried.

Good views down to Derwent Water on the way up. Bassenthwaite was well lit at times from the summit.

Jolly cold and windy on the top. Better views of Derwent Water on the way down via Little Man.

Sunny the last couple of hours to Threlkeld and the Horse and Farrier where we are staying. Good selection of beers including Jennings Bitter and Marstons EPA, as well as Snecklifter.

Al just tried to pinch my beer. Whatever next?

We are halfway through our 8 day trek and have walked 3 of the English 3000-footers. Just one to go, Helvellyn on Tuesday. Short day tomorrow.
Derwent Water

Bassenthwaite



Saturday, 7 June 2014

Lakes Round Day 3 - Cat Bells

No Wifi in Stonethwaite. What a disaster, no blogging tonight.

The forecast was for thunderstorms so we had an early breakfast to make sure we were on our way by 9am. We wanted to be off the high ground before the storms arrived.

It was quite a pull up to High Spy and before we reached the ridge the rain had arrived.

Rain and no visibility on the tops.
We headed for Maiden Moor and I was surprised by the view to Cat Bells. It was really impressive but needed better light. I took a photo on my phone as a reminder.

We made it to Cat Bells in time for our 1pm lunch booking! Flat light so no proper photos. Lots of people.

I carried my Mamiya 7 camera and Sekonik spot meter all day but didn't take anything. Fortunately I left out the second lens, tripod, filters and camera case to save my back!

We have a luxury hotel in Keswick including separate rooms and a 4 poster bed! Al should sleep well tonight (he whinged about me snoring last night keeping him awake - I think he has me confused with the person next door as I have never heard myself snore). 

Jolly difficult to book just one night for the weekend of the Keswick beer festival. The festival is all ticket and we don't have any so we found a few pubs to compensate.

That's 2 big days out of 3 with bad weather and few photos. It's interesting that when I plan these trips I always imagine the walking days are in good weather. What's going wrong?
10 miles, 6 hours.
Cat Bells from Maiden Moor


Lakes Round Day 2 - Great Gable

Friday 6th June 2014. What a contrast to yesterday, we awoke to wall to wall blue sky. Looked like the forecast was right!

Jolly good breakfast at the Wasdale Head Hotel, just what we needed before a big day on the hills. There were name plates on the tables and next to us was Mr C Limer, quite apt for such an important climbing area!
 
I took some drugs before leaving and wore my back support to help my back. Splitting the load by carrying my camera on the front and rucsac on my back helped enormously compared to yesterday when I carried everything in my rucsac.

We were on our way by 9am heading for Great Gable. There are some waterfalls that I have wanted to photograph for several years and today was the day!

They were a few hundred yards below the track between Great Gable and Kirk Fell. Close up they look very impressive, wide and about 50 feet high. It was a jolly steep grassy slope down to them so I definitely won't be using them as a location on our Lakes photo courses! I used a long shutter speed of 0.5 and 1 second to make the water streaky. Should be good.

We followed the track for quite a way before boredom set in and we made our own way across the hillside. It was steep with lots of loose rock to make it harder.

The main challenge on the way up was a long wide gully of scree and boulders a few hundred yards from Napes Needle.

I spotted a shapely rock and headed across to see if it looked better close to, it didn't.

Al stayed on the other side, just as well as he seemed to be swearing about me and my choice of route. Some people are just so ungrateful, it was a really quiet route up!

He soon crossed the scree to join me and it looked like he was up to his knees in scree, then I realised he was kneeling on the slope not part buried. What a relief, I was worried what digging him out would do to my bad back!

Jolly good views above the gully. I was using Ilford SFX infrared film for some dramatic effects, as well as Ilford FP4 of course.

Watched a rescue helicopter lift someone off the top close to Scafell Pike.

So many people on Great Gable, pleased I took my photos from the top before the place was overrun.

Onwards to Green Gable and a spectacular view to Buttermere and Ennerdale. Nice light too but a bit of haze so I used my new light red filter to cut through it. Fingers crossed it does the job. 

It was now just 3.5 miles and 6 hours since we started, not exactly rushing.

We ended with a tricky walk down to Seathwaite past some spectacular waterfalls in Sour Milk Gill then an easy walk to Stonethwaite. We were in a b&b near the pub and we headed straight for........the pub!

4 real ales on and all on good form. Can't remember the rest of the evening.

Tomorrow we walk to Keswick along the Cat Bells ridge, thunderstorms permitting.

8.5 miles, nearly 5000 feet of ascent, 8 hours, lots of stops.
Ennerdale
Buttermere from Green Gable
Scafell Pike from Great Gable


Thursday, 5 June 2014

Another Walk in the Clouds

Today was our first day of the 8 day circular walk around the Lake District that I've planned.

I was hoping for some bright spells this afternoon so I carried my Mamiya 7 camera and Gitzo tripod in my rucsac. A total weight of 13kg, a lot more than I normally carry and my bad back noticed it straight away.

We left the Woolpack in Boot at 9am in the rain. The forecast was unfortunately correct!

As we climbed higher we were soon in the clouds with visibility of about 50 yards. We had no views at all until we dropped down into Wasdale at the end of the day.

We made it to Scafell at 12.15 but didn't linger as there was a cold wind with the rain. Dropped down to Foxes Tarn for lunch, Jan's home made flapjack with a couple of dihydrocodeine to help reduce the pain from my back.

The descent from here was dreadful, loose wet rock, jolly slippery. We detoured off about 50 yards to avoid one particularly bad steep section. Then up to Mickledore and Scafell Pike (highest mountain in England) by 2.15pm. Still no views. I took a Naproxen to help further reduce my back pain. It worked quite well. 

I remembered that I needed a photo for this blog and asked Al to pose next to the summit trig point. What a mistake, 10 minutes later he'd done his hair and let me take the shot! I used a wide angle from a distance to avoid having Al's hair overpowering the shot.

The path down was very good, like a mountain motorway so we made good time.

We were soon below the clouds and I was looking for photos. We could see sunshine below and clouds around the tops were moving fast.

We stopped and I waited for the clouds to lift and thin. They duly obliged and I took a few shots towards Scafell and Mickledore.

The light improved as we descended and the next stop was some waterfalls with sunlit Wast Water lake in the background.

Then down to our hostelry for the night, the Wasdale Head Hotel. After checking in, collecting our luggage and dropping off our rucsacs we headed for the bar. Shock, horror, there was no Yewbarrow which is one of my favourite beers. The brewery is up for sale and not brewing at the moment. The Corby Noir and Jennings Mild are my replacements.

Tomorrow we walk over to Borrowdale and the forecast is great! Will take kitchen sink as far as camera gear goes including infrared film and filters.




Wednesday, 4 June 2014

Boot Beer Festival Preview

I'm in the Lake District with good friend Al from Gloucester. We have joined up for our annual walking cum photography trip. We are walking for 8 days over the highest mountains in England, 75 miles in total, starting and finishing at the Woolpack in Eskdale.

Coincidentally this is also the day before the Boot Beer Festival begins but they have quite a few beers on already. What a stroke of luck!

Tomorrow we walk Scafell and Scafell Pike ending up in the Wasdale Head Hotel. Forecast is a bit iffy, hope they got it wrong.

Have so far tried 3 beers, the Goodhews Dry Stout is currently way in front of anything else we've tried. A jolly nice pint.

Monday, 2 June 2014

New Images of Glen Coe

I have added some new images of Glen Coe to my web gallery on davebutcher.co.uk. Here's a link to just the new ones. They were taken over several trips in summer and winter, with and without snow. Hope you like them!

Pap of Glencoe and Loch Leven

3 Sisters of Glen Coe and Aonach Eagach

3 Sisters of Glen Coe

 Aonach Eagach Ridge

 Aonach Eagach from Glen Coe

Glencoe Lochan Reflections

Lower Glen Coe Falls



Tuesday, 20 May 2014

The Obsession of a Landscape Photographer

In the summer of 2005 my wife Jan and I visited our best friends Rob and Annie in Boulder Colorado.

I had some locations in mind for photographs but needed to check what else was out there. Soon after arriving I bought a book from a local bookstore in Boulder to identify more locations. It was called Best of Colorado, by the excellent Colorado landscape photographer John Fielder. This had details of 165 scenic places, more than enough for our 3 week stay. Number 4 covered the Brainard Lake area of the Indian Peaks Wilderness in the Rockies, some 30 miles west of Boulder.

In 2005 I was using Mamiya 6 cameras, as I had done since 1993, but switched to Mamiya 7 the following year when Mamiya UK kindly loaned me 2 cameras and 3 lenses for 2 years. The bigger negative of 7x6cm and wider 43m lens (divide by 2 for the full frame or 35mm equivalent) really made a difference. It gives me 10 shots on a roll of 120 film and I often bracket taking shots in pairs in case there are flaws on negatives or one is damaged.

All of the shots shown here were taken on Ilford FP4+ 120 film, probably the best black and white film in the world! I also use Gitzo Mountaineer tripods, either a GT1541 or a lighter and smaller G1028, all with Manfrotto ball heads, for every photograph I take on dry land. They are the lightest tripods around but very sturdy.

 

Summer 2005, First View. After walking around Brainard Lake we stopped at the neighbouring and much smaller Red Rock Lake. It was a sunny day with good clouds and a bit breezy so no reflections. It was quite a view but something was missing!

Next we stopped at the nearby bar for some much needed liquid refreshments as it was a hot day. There were a few colour photographs on the wall and one took my eye, of Red Rock Lake in winter, where we had been just a few minutes earlier. I had never seen trees look like this before. They were almost completely solid white, with a white frozen lake at the base of the shot but nothing of interest in the foreground and a blue sky, no mountains. It was clearly taken for the trees.

I knew at 90 degrees to the view in this photo there was a better shot for black and white. I wanted a frozen lake with interesting foreground detail, frosted white trees as in the colour shot, snowy mountains in the background and an interesting blue sky with some clouds. So began the obsession!

I have to say at this stage that all of my photographs have to be printed in the darkroom using traditional methods and my prints are as close to what I saw when I pressed the shutter button as is possible. I use camera filters to compensate for the over-sensitivity of black and white film to blue light and darken skies slightly when printing in the darkroom if the filter effect is insufficient. I never combine negatives, if it isn't on the single negative I'm working from I don't look for it anywhere else. If the shot isn't right when I visit a location I keep going back until it is!

I needed to check that the shot I had in mind would work so we returned a couple of weeks later. After climbing one of the nearby peaks, Pawnee Peak (just under 4000m, 12,943 feet in old money!), we again stopped at Red Rock Lake on the way out of the Brainard Lake State Park. Once again it was a sunny day but this time no wind so there were reflections on the lake surface. I walked around the lake shore to confirm that the shot would only work from the end of the lake furthest from the mountains, anywhere else and trees blocked the view. I put it into memory, it would have to wait until we returned one winter in the future.

 

Winter 2009. So, three and a half years later we did return and made 2 trips to Red Rock Lake. On the first I didn't even use the camera as it was low cloud and blizzard conditions so no chance of any shot, I just checked the location to save time in the future.

We returned 2 days later. It was a pretty good day as we snowshoed the 3 miles to the location but the clouds didn't lift off the mountain tops and the trees weren't frosted enough. I took a shot of the lake with a rock and snow formation in the foreground. I was missing the frosted trees, mountains and sky but at least the sun gave some brightness on the snowy lake surface.

  

 

Winter 2010. The following winter we snowshoed 9 miles around 3 lakes in the area and Red Rock Lake was frozen  solid. Most of the snow had been blown off the lake surface and there was no frosting on the trees so the dark green conifers formed quite a barrier between the lake and mountains. This hike around the other lakes also confirmed that Red Rock Lake was the best location for the shot that I wanted.

 

 

Winter 2011. The next year there was even less snow on Red Rock Lake, it was mostly thick ice, and no view to the mountains. We were thankful for the crampons built into our snowshoes or we would have been sliding around and falling over. No chance of the shot during this visit.

We could see that there had been soft snow on the lake surface at some time recently as there was a line of tracks left raised above the ice, made from compressed snow which then couldn't be blown away when the wind blew leaving phantom tracks on the ice, shown here.

  

 

Winter 2012. Another winter and another visit to Red Rock Lake. It was a real blizzard and so bad in fact that Rob refused to get out of the car! We went without him snowshoeing through deep snow to the lake. It was bitterly cold.

There was surprisingly little snow on the lake and it was very windy. There was some frosting on the trees but not enough and no view of the mountains. It made a nice shot with the snow blowing in streaks across the surface towards me. There was more snow at the edge of the lake so that's where I took the shot from for this visit.

 

 

Winter 2014. We had a 2 year gap until we could return for the 8th visit. 

Finally, everything seemed to be coming together. It was a really cold blue sky day and fresh powder snow had fallen and was blowing around. In fact it was blowing so much that we came to a complete halt driving on the road near Brainard as visibility fell to zero. But it would take more than a blizzard to stop us!

Rob made it through and parked at the winter trailhead and I was quickly out of the car strapping snowshoes on and striding out over deep snow on the track. The others joined me later, taking a rather more leisurely approach.

I was rushing because I could see the snow being blown off the trees and I feared the white trees would disappear and I would be left with green ones again. The view was magnificent but it was extremely cold, at least -20C.

I often walk the hills with just 1 camera and one lens, usually the 43mm. However, on this day I also had a 65mm lens so that the mountains in the background would be more prominent in the final shot.

I took the first photographs on my 43mm wide-angle lens to match the shots from previous years. 

Then I took it on my 65mm lens, not as extreme a wide-angle. I used both orange filters and a new Mamiya polarising filter that I had never used before for landscapes. The 2 images shown here were with the polarising filter. The ones with an orange filter worked equally well but the mountains were  partly obscured by the blizzard. 

Unfortunately, in the extreme cold the polarising filter didn't turn very easily and I had to take the glove off my right hand to grip it to turn it for the darkening effect. Very quickly I lost feeling in my fingers and thumb. I tried to take a photo on my Samsung smartphone which I could edit to roughly match what I had taken on my proper camera, to illustrate a blog post. The touchscreen of the phone didn't sense my fingers, I may as well have been touching it with a stick; it ignored me. Fortunately Jan took some on her Nikon D90 so I used these instead for my blog. It took 3 days for the feeling to return to the tip of my right index finger and thumb following the frost nip.

I took just 3 rolls over about an hour before snow blew into the back of the camera as I was loading the fourth. I could hardly feel my fingers on my right hand so I took this as a sign that it was time to finish.

I like the effect of both lenses but the 43mm wide expansive landscape is closer to what I originally had in mind. Interesting foreground, snow-covered frozen lake, frosted trees, snowy mountains and an interesting blue sky with clouds, as well as powder snow billowing off the mountain tops.

So, just the 8 trips, 6 in winter, to finally succeed in taking the photograph I had visualised some 9 years earlier! Our friends are relieved too, I think they have seen too much of Red Rock Lake in winter!

 

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